After communing with Maya spirits, kinkajous, and gnarly tarantulas in northwestern Belize, I skim back across the forest canopy and out to Caye Caulker, where the locals immediately order me to “Go Slow!” I try to listen, but there are so many changes on the island that my few days here are a non-stop whirl of walking. And talking. And typing.
I’d originally planned on knocking off the island, then busting up to San Pedro for the daunting task of tackling Ambergris Caye, Belize’s most developed, happening destination. But a little birdie at Ragamuffin Tours convinces me to stick around for their 3-day sailing trip to Placencia — an island hopping adventure featuring snorkeling, fishing, and camping on deserted islands. Normally I wouldn’t indulge in such a time-wasting tangent, but the trip stops at several important cayes that I would otherwise have had to get to from Dangriga. I say yes. My decision leaves me with an extra day, and I’ve completed most of my research here on Caulker. So I decide to finally dive the famous Blue Hole, since my editor wants more diving information anyway. My alarm is set for 5 a.m. I’ll see you under the ocean.
