Map: Across the Subcontinent
byHere’s an overdue shot of our route. The writing is small, I know, so I’ll spell it out: after landing in Islamabad two months…
Amritsar to Calcutta
Date Night in Calcutta
byAlthough still gazing northward toward our new and unknown home in the village of Birpara, Jaipalguri District, we remain wallowing in a character-less strip,…
Reporting for Duty
byNo longer tourists nor family historians, my wife and I are now members of the worldwide AJWS Volunteer Corps. As such, we have begun…
Indulgence in Delhi
byA brief, business-oriented stopover in the capital brings us long-denied pleasures like beer, meat (chicken, anyway), sheesha smoking, movies, henna, and all manner of…
Yoga City Yatra: The Rishikesh Runaround
by“You picked the absolute worst time to come to Rishikesh,” said Shoshana, the Angrezi (Anglo) proprietress of Kripalu Yoga Ashram. She was referring not…
Monsoon Honeymoon: Mussoorie
byWe arrived in Mussoorie on Sunday morning, exhausted, sheets of rain coming down, after an all-night bus ride from Dharamsala. Mussoorie was a place…
Dharamsala Dreamin’
byFar north of the disastrous flooding in Mumbai, we are, nevetheless, soaking up our share of the monsoon deluge that has caused so much…
The Noblest Delight! Beyond the Golden Temple
byAh, the Golden Temple. A worthy site indeed. We were the only westerners among thousands of Sikhs, for whom a visit to this place,…